Cleaning 2JZ VVTi Oil Control Valve (OCV)

This is a guide to cleaning the VVTi Oil Control Valve (OCV) and filter on the 2JZGTE or 2JZGE VVTi engine. This is the valve the controls the oil pressure sent to the VVTi intake cam gear assembly. This can be done as preventive maintenance, to replace with new components or if there are error codes. I’ve seen various forums that mention code 59 for supra and P1329 for IS300/Aristo which may be cleared by cleaning the OCV if there are issues with the VVTi system.

This is probably not required for most well maintained 2JZ’s but I was double checking mine before I install camshafts and springs to ensure the vvti functions correctly and to the best of it’s ability.

These instructions are for the supra 2JZGTE VVTi, but may be applicable for other VVTi engines from various models, there may be further steps involved depending on your application.

Tools Required;

  • 22mm spanner or socket
  • 10mm spanner or socket
  • 5mm allen key or socket
  • Needle nose plyers or small flat head screw driver
  • Rag

Optional Parts Required;

*Note – These are only required if you believe these are in bad condition, faulty or are damaged as part of removal/installation

  • 15330-46010 – Oil Control Valve
  • 90099-14137 – Rubber o_ring for Oil Control Valve
  • 15678-46020 – Oil Control Valve Filter
  • 90430-16012 – Washer/Gaskets for union bolt

Start by disconnecting the battery as a precaution. Your engine bay should look something like this πŸ™‚

This is the location of the OCV, the top connector will need to be unplugged and the 22mm union bolt below it. Ensure you put a rag under the bolt as a small amount of oil will come out, also there is a washer behind the bolt that may drop.



Once you have removed the union bolt and washer you should ensure you remove the washer behind the fitting.


There is a chance the OCV filter does not come out and is left in the hole. You can use needle nose plyers, a small flat head screw driver or other method to remove it.


Once the OCV filter and union bolt plus the washers are removed use your favourite parts cleaner/degreaser to clear it of any oil/gunk. Be careful not to touch the mesh part of the filter if possible. In my case the filter was very clean. You can then put the OCV filter back on the end of the union bolt.

The next step is optional but at this stage you can put it all back together the opposite to how it was removed, or you can continue cleaning the rest of the OCV.

Remove the cam cover bolts (5mm allen key/socket) and you should have something looking like this below (note these are LS2 LQ9 coils – not stock setup)

Remove the 10mm bolt on top of the OCV

You can now slide the valve out, you may need to turn/twist it while removing, it requires a little force due to the rubber oil seal.


You can now see inside where the OCV and union bolt was removed πŸ™‚


Once the OCV is removed use your favourite parts cleaner/degreaser to clear it of any oil/gunk. In my case the OCV was very clean. I took a few pics so those interested could see how it looks.





You can now put the OCV back on, along with the OCV union bolt and filter if you didn’t earlier. Be careful with the OCV, I’d recommend putting some oil around the rubber seal to ensure an easy installation.Β Ensure all the bolts are tightened, cam cover placed back on, VVTi solenoid connector plugged in and battery re-connected. Once complete should look something like this.


20 thoughts on “Cleaning 2JZ VVTi Oil Control Valve (OCV)”

  1. I know I’m very late on posting, but here’s my problem anyways…. my valve is leaking but it’s inside if the electrical connector, not around the calve body or the bolt. Is this fixable or do I need to replace? Iv cleaned it twice and both time is full of new oil inside the connector.

    1. Hi,

      Not a problem at all. That’s a strange one, are the rubber seals in good shape? Are you sure it’s not leaking from the valve covers or somewhere else? The reason I ask is because the electrical connector sits on top of the solenoid, but after a bit of searching I have found that the solenoid can fail and leak through to the connectors in some cases, so it’s most likely a failed solenoid valve and will need replacing if you are certain that nothing else is leaking and you have cleaned everything.

      1. No valve covers are good. I had an old leak witch is fixed. New cam and crank seals, new timing, new vvti sprocket, new valve cover gaskets. And no leak since. Only place I notice the leak is from the top inside the connection. The rubber seal inside is still good. Even if though my harness connector is damaged it still connects and seals. There is no other oil leaks on the top of the engine.

        1. One thing I noticed after looking at the connection is that the plastic connection body wiggles a bit, is this normal? After I cleaned it last time it seems to have stopped leaking, been 2 days so far. Fingers crossed.

          1. I’d say after your last post that this may have been residual left over from the oil leak you had, you’ve replaced everything that I would have replaced also, I’d hope that’s all it was. I can’t remember how much play the connector itself has, but it shouldn’t be much. If it seems to still build up then it is probably the solenoid that has failed, the rubber ring on the inside can be fine, but the solenoid can fail and cause the leak (no matter how good of condition the rubber seal on the inside is) .

            1. Honestly I cannot say if it was the solenoid or the connector that was leaking but everything seems fine now. I also do not have the random misfires (cyl 1, 3, and 5) after I did whatever it was I did.

  2. Hi, thanks for a great walk through of this, mine is leaking. I was wondering if this could cause the oil pressure light to illuminate for a few seconds longer on a cold start up? My check engine light is not on.

    1. Yes it could be, especially if it’s leaking. It could be as simple as loose 10mm nut (Don’t over-tighten it) or the Rubber oring for the Oil Control Valve. Or the 22mm bolt and/or Washer/Gaskets for the union bolt where the oil feeds from. Also ensure you have the correct viscosity oil.

  3. followed your steps, i got the same code on my scanner so did everything you have shown above and the car was perfect for 20 secs πŸ™‚ then it started again πŸ™ im thinking my actual OCV is faulty cars done 150,000 kilometers….doesn’t look like there’s much to the oc valve tho…they are way more expensive for the gs300 than newer car ocv’s like rav4, aurion on ebay….. will let you know how it pans out..cheers for the post

      1. I know the OCV can cause bad idle, lack of power and a bad or dirty solenoid might be causing a misfire event, I’ve seen a few guys mention misfire like symptoms from a bad OCV. Since it’s fairly easy to full out and clean/test I start with this. While you are there also check that your cam seals aren’t leaking into the spark plug valleys and check your spark plugs/connectors.

  4. Hi I have been fallowing your website since you started it. Good work. I go by Forgottenzone in Supra, Cressida, Lexus forums.
    I have been working / cpllecting parts for my cressida 2JZGTE VVTI swap for 3 years now.
    I am making a 92 Cressida sleeper auto. staying with CT20’s wich are already upgraded with GT2860RS internals and rear Turbo modified for true Parallel mode. staying with Automatic. Well enough of that i can start my own website with all the stuff i have and done he he.
    Anyways I want to share some informatio and links from time to time so you can post them in here.
    The first one is for How to replace the 2JZ VVTI rubber Oil Seal. and it also showes hot to take apart the VVTI Gear and put it back together your self.
    Yes the bolts that Toyota recomends not to touch.
    Guys youtube name is Jeffs Garage and he has few videos step by step how to replace timing belt as well.
    Here is the link for DIY rebuilding 2JZ VVTI Gear:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KQGRulDJSk

    This is the link where you can get the rebuilt seal and also rebuilt service if you don’t want to do it yourself:

    http://powerdynamix.com/store#!/~/category/id=5291270&offset=0&sort=normal

    1. Thanks for the links and support mate, I’ve always followed Jeff’s Garage and will ensure I post the rest of his videos up as they are very good references.

      Thanks for following and I hope you keep up the good work with the 2JZ πŸ™‚

      All the best with the Cressida, sounds like a sleeper!

      Dustin

      1. Thank you. yeah expencive sleeper. i am already like 20g’s into it. Ill keep you updated. keep up the good work. ill send you some more i have found over the years. i even have a 100 page 2jz gte vvti swap manual in pdf form i found on the net, ETC. I have been talking with Rick from MOJO. I will be getting his kit soon. since i will be using AEM V2 that i purchased from suprastore that works together with oem ECU. with PNP harness. DEZOD makes it.
        SInce its wired for AEM to control fuel air spark and boost. I will need to add 3 wires for 3 extra SOP’s and get 3 wires from the oem Igniter like you did. this ill eliminate the wasted spark all together. and i can sell the oem coils and igniter and ngk wires i purchased and put the money towards MOJO kit.
        DId you sell your oem coils and igniter? how much can i get for them.

        1. Hey mate,

          Sorry I completely missed your post from months back! How is the car coming along, did you end up getting the mojo kit?

          I sold my coils locally (In Australia), I think I got $350 AU for them from memory. I still haven’t sold the igniters I have here. I think $300 USD is a fair price for used coils in good condition, probably $70USD or so for igniter?

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