Aftermarket Cam gear Installation

This is a guide to replacing a cam gear/s on the 2JZGTE or 2JZGE engine.

Some of these steps can be used to replace the timing belt, but not all, in the future I hope to have a full article on that process.

The process and pictures were taken mostly on my 2JZGTE VVTi supra, there are a few pictures of my old 2JZGE also – the process is almost identical and can be followed for both turbo and non-turbo engine models. The same process can be followed on the non-vvti, the VVTi has only the exhaust side cam gear that can be replaced, the non-vvti can have the exhaust and intake cam gear swapped out.

I have also done this with the engine out which makes it a lot easier to get parts off, I may only briefly touch on some steps that I didn’t have to do, also if you’re going to do this then I suggest you do your timing belt and water pump if need be, good time to change your coolant and flush/bleed system once done also, plus any seals or maintenance items.

Tools required; (*Optional)

  • Torque wrench
  • Socket set and extension bars (10, 12, 17, 22 mm sizes)
  • Screw driver
  • Pliers
  • Jack and Stands (Safety First!)
  • Coolant *
  • Timing Belt *
  • Water Pump *
  • Cam seals *

Process;

  • Diagram

timing_belt_diag

  • Disconnect the battery cables and clamp then remove the battery. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 3x 10mm bolts holding the battery tray in

  • Jack up car and put it safely on stands, get you 10mm socket and undo engine under cover (this will aid in removing radiator, removing fan, removing, shroud, disconnecting any plugs like electric fans if you have them, getting to timing belt tensioner)

timing_belt_diag_2

Diagram EM15 Part 1 –  

  • Get the pliers and remove the clamps on the radiator hoses (Do one end and drain into bucket, do a coolant change while your at it)
  • Remove radiator, fan shroud (10mm bolts on radiator) and electric fans/plugs

Diagram EM15 Part 2 – 

  • Remove drive belt tensioner damper (2x 10mm bolts)

Diagram EM15 Part 3 – 

  • Remove drive belt (Put socket over dampener bolt and push down clockwise to loosen off), remove clutch fan (4x 10mm nuts) – Don’t worry about where it mentions in step 3 to look at removing water pump pulley)
  • Remove timing belt cover (10mm allen heads) – Don’t worry about where it mentions in step 3 to look at removing water pump pulley, this is not required

Diagram EM15 Part 4 – 

  • Not required for removal

Diagram EM15 Part 5 – 

  • Remove the 5mm allen head bolts on the spark plug cover, remove spark plug cover (NA has 3x bolts, TT nas 12x bolts). Also remove any intake or piping/plumbing for easier access if required

Diagram Part 6 – 

  • Remove the 5mm allen head bolts on the lower spark plug cover
  • You should now have something similar to this (TT top picture, NA bottom)

Diagram EM15 Part 7 – 

  • Not required

timing_belt_diag_3

Diagram EM16 Part 8 – 

  • Follow instructions part 8a and 8b only, making sure your timing is at TDC 0 (white line) also mark your timing belt with something to match up with the cam gear marks like a crayon that I used. You will see the marks on the cam gear will match up with the notches at the back too. If they don’t match up then turn the crank clockwise another 360 degrees until the cam gear notches line up and crank is at TDC 0.
  • Unless you have an SST then do this, loosen your cam bolt(s) here while you still have tension on the timing belt (Use 22mm socket on the crank bolt to stop it moving while you loosen the cam gear bolts, they are tight)

Diagram EM16 Part 9 – 

  • 9 Only – Optional – There is no need to completely remove the timing belt
  • 9a – By now you should have access to the drive belt tensioner so loosen these 2 (12mm) bolts (DON’T TAKE THEM OFF), this will take tension off the belt, it is the rusty looking thing.

  • By now, you should have enough slack to easily remove the timing belt, if not loosen bolts a little more on the belt tensioner. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE!!! You don’t want to bump the cam gears or the crank pulley or you could seriously throw your timing off! Carefully back the cam gear bolt back out and set aside.

  • Take the cam gear off carefully and put new cam gear(s) on, making sure the teeth or the belt don’t move, the cam gear is keyed and can only go on one way, your marks should line up, if not make sure they do! (If your not VVTi do the other side too, but make sure you do one side at a time)

timing_belt_diag_4

Diagram EM23 Part 9b, 10a and 10b – 

  • From here you just need to put cam gear bolt back in and do up hand tight ensuring camshaft timing markings are correct

Diagram EM23 Part 11- 

  • Not required unless you removed timing belt tensioner

Diagram EM23 Part 12- 

  • Tighten torque drive belt tensioner bolts back up evenly to 20ft/lbs with a torque wrench, also making sure your belt is on evenly (look from above).
  • Next get 22mm wrench again and put on crank bolt and get torque wrench and do up cam gear bolt 59ft/lbs (using crank bolt to stop from moving)

 

  • As far as timing and tuning goes please use instructions provided or get your mechanic/tuner to do for you, make sure you use loctite on cam gear bolts.
  • Install everything back on and make sure TDC is at 0 and the cam gears line up with the marks, also make sure everything is put back together and you’re not missing screws and nuts that you put everywhere, also do a coolant flush/bleed system.

  • Old cam gear out and new cam gear in – job complete!

 

4 thoughts on “Aftermarket Cam gear Installation”

  1. Building am import and decided on the 2JZ.

    Do you have a write up on locking the VVTI system and a Non-VVTI adjustable cam gear install?

    Our EFI system will not support VVTI.

    Putting a 2JZ in to a 1993 RX7 FD.

    1. Hi,

      I don’t have any write ups or steps on locking the VVTi system, it’s not something I would recommend doing, most aftermarket ECU’s usually have VVTi support these days and I would highly recommend this as the route as a first option. If you were to lock the system you would need to do do 2 things, one would be to remove the VVTi solenoid or not supply power to it, if the solenoid was removed you would need to block the oil passage. Also finally you would need to find a way to lock the intake cam in position as it would default to the full retard position. If you are not going to use VVTi then I’d go down the non-vvti path as it will be much easier than disabling VVTi.

      This post is the Non-VVTi cam gear install also, you would just repeat what I did on the exhaust cam side on the intake side with a non-vvti. ALso RX-7 with 2JZ would be a nice combo!

  2. Hello I guess I should start with what I’m building. I have a 93 2JZGE out of a Lexus. I want to turbo this mini monster. But my issue is that the internet is so full of people who saying they know best its hard to know what to read and what to ignore. I’m just looking for some ideas mainly what parts are universal from the ge to the gte?

    Thanks
    Benjmain

    1. Hi Benjamin,

      I always recommend speaking to a workshop or someone familiar with the Lexus/Toyota or 2JZGE/GTE setups. Generally speaking you can turbo an NA 2JZGE with good results, depending on what modifications you run, the amount of boost and also your budget.

      One thing I’m looking to do in the future (when I get time!) is put a nice GE vs GTE comparison on the website, but generally speaking the bottom end is very similar to the GTE

      Differences;

      Pistons (higher compression), oil squirters (GTE only), head, head gasket, Fuel pump, injectors, ignition (coils GTE vs distributer GE), clutch and flywheel and also a few other differences (i.e – no turbos or SMIC’s!)

      If it’s a VVTi 2JZGE then the rods are weaker than the GTE’s, although you mentioned you had a 93 model, so probably not a factor.

      There is plenty of information out there on supraforums about people who have done the work and know the limitations. I always recommend a competent tuner and workshop, if your keeping to a budget keep the turbo “smallish” and efficient, run lower boost (under 10psi or so) and upgrade the ECU/piggyback, exhaust, injectors and fuel pump. Once you got past this point it starts getting into a cost vs the GTE, where it’s more cost efficient to go the GTE path in most instances, although with a Lexus then this may be more costly.

      For more info I find this is a good reference – http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?682898-NA-t-BIBLE-things-you-need-to-know-for-your-NA-T-conversion

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