(VVTi 2JZGTE left – Japan Only, VVTi 2JZGE Right – US/UK Only – This is true for supras, other toyotas may have had these engines available in other models)
- The VVTi 2jzgte came in JZA80 Supra from September 1997 – July 2002
- Max Power: 209 @ 5600 (280 hp)
- Torque (nm) 46.0 @ 3600 (338ft/lb)
- Injectors: 440cc
- Injector Impedance: High Impedance
- Stock recommended Denso plugs: PK20TR11
- Stock recommended NGK plugs: BKR6EKPB11
- Airflow Sensor: Hot wire type airflow meter
- Fly by wire throttle (Still has throttle cable)
- Traction control is built into ECU
- ECU is OBDII based using JOBD specification/protocol (ISO 14230) but you cannot use the standard OBDII scanners to read error codes/diagnostics etc It still has a OBDII connector and can be scanned using a scanning tool and software, you can read more about this here – http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/01/2jzgte-vvti-obd-scanning-and-information/
- Rev Limit: 7200rpm
- Speed cut: 180km/h
How VVTi Works
How the ETCS-i (throttle control system) works
Variable valve timing with inelligence(VVT-i)optimizes engine efficency by constantly retarding or advancing intake valve timing depends on conditions and engine speeds. The result is exceptional low-end torque to get you off the line ,mid–rang punch for passing situations and clean-burning efficiency throughout the rev range.
Unlike some systems that switch between two compromise settings,VVT-i adjust continuously,tailoring performance to suit virtually any situation.
Some further reading and explanation of VVTi with diagrams: http://blog.lexus.com/2008/02/vvt-i-its-all-a.html
Are VVTi head components different then non-vvti?
Yes and no! The vvti has a different Intake cam/cam gear (As it’s VVTi!) Aftermarket cams are available for the VVTi such as HKS’s Valcon system yet they are expensive, a custom grind is probably a more viable option. Link to HKS Valcon Unit: http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/…on/valcon.html
The exhaust cam/cam gear is the same as the non-vvti exhaust cam and can take aftermarket cams such as HKS, JUN etc.
The actual head components are the same (Well at least interchangeable with non vvti and aftermarket parts). These parts are listed below. The only difference I found in part numbers were the shims, not sure on differences, may only be part updating and no physical change.
Is the VVTi engine weaker?
No, some Toyota lovers will know that most of the later model vvti engines such as (1UZ, 3UZ etc) had weaker rods. The VVTi 2JZGTE rods are the exact same size as the non-vvti units. Also the crank is exactly the same and so are the pistons and everything else in the bottom end. Below I have listed all the parts and they are exactly the same, they have been confirmed in the EPC (Toyota Electronic Parts Catalog) Pics are also shown below in the end of the post. The only 1 different part number I found was the crank pulley (not the whole dampner/balancer, just the pulley, look like exactly the same thing, and they are!)
What parts are the same as non-vvti? (Confirmed from EPC and personal experience and research)
Piston Rings: Yes
Bearings (Rod and crankshaft): Yes
Rods and rod bolts: YES! YES! YES!
Oil Pump: Need to confirm but most likely YES – They have a different part number, but only at the last number which usually means they were the same unit but updated when new series started etc. Also there is no seperate diagram which also is a good indicator they are the same.
Exhaust Cam/Cam Gear: Yes
Intake Cam/Cam Gear: No
Intake and exhaust valves: Yes
Valve guides: Yes
Shims: Same size and fit but different part numbers
Timing Belt: Yes
Top radiator pipe: No (Different size – due to intake cam lump)
Throttle cable: No (Different size)
Intake manifold: Can be swapped but has different vacuum piping/different IACV and of course different Electronics/TRAC/Throttle Body
Exhaust Manifold: Yes
TRAC: No (Built into the ECU)
VVTi – ETCS Fuse 15amp Non vvti – TRAC fuse with 7.5amp
Aristo Engine differences:
The VVTi 2jzgte engine also came in the 1998-2005 Aristo V300 (JZS161), as I’ve done a conversion using this engine I can provide some information on the differences.
I’ve outlined the detailed changes and pictures on my – Toyota Supra NA-TT conversion – Aristo engine differences – Part 4.
There is also some more information on my project conversion thread from supraforums AU – Project SZR to TT.
As a general overview – If you are swapping this engine into a supra you will need to do the following:
- Aristo power steering pump has a solenoid valve which the supra doesn’t, mainly this effects the power steering lines as the bolt configuration is different, you will need a supra one
- The water pump is the same on the VVTi and is not hydro – it will not need to be changed
- The Aristo has a front mounted sump, you will need to change to a supra mid mounted sump layout.
- Engine loom will need to be modified or swapped for a supra unit
- Engine Mounts and brackets will need to be swapped
- Brake booster bung (Goes to top of intake manifold)
- o2 sensor loom plug will need to be swapped
- Water temp sender (Not sensor) will need to be purchased and installed
- Oil level sensor plug may need to be purchased
- Heater hoses from engine will need to purchased as the aristo ones are different
- Oil dip stick bracket is different
- Oil return lines from turbos are different
- Fuse box will need custom wiring, some differences: ETSC (TRAC Control) fuse is 15amp and needs to go to 5 pin connector under fuse box, I setup the wiring for the electric FAN (Don’t have them though), EFI1 and EFI2 relays and fuses were setup as NA only uses one EFI relay, this required wire from 5 pin connector under the fuse box and also modifying the EFI relay wiring.
Pictures of original engine – 2JZGTE VVTi out of an 2000 Aristo that I used for my conversion
Engine with Titan Cam gear and Power Enterprise Timing Belt
Intake Manifold and lower runners
Aristo and Supra power steering pump differences:
Aristo Sump (Front sump configuration)
Supra Sump (Mid sump configuration)
2JZGTE VVTi Aristo Wiring Loom
2JZGTE VVTi Supra Wiring Loom
ECU – Has traction control built-in (Last plug on RH side)
Water Temp Sender (Not Sensor – water temp sensor is below)
More pictures of a stripped down 2JZGTE VVTi engine and components can be found here: http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/04/vvti-pictures
Hi, I have a 1997 Supra RZS TT VVTi .. I have done sooo much reading but never found a straight answer. I have taken my supra to three mechanics, 2 of which are very well versed in supras and no solution..
When i start up my supra all is well, i can switch off the SLIP CONT and I can engage SNOW.. all works fine. If I turn SLIP OFF, I can drive maybe 200m and then it starts flashing. Same deal if I don’t press anything .. all the dash lights are off, as they should be, then it will start flashing out of nowhere.
I have tried the Speed Sensor #2 bypass on the back of the speedometer and I thought I had fixed it, as I went for a decent drive but then as I headed back, it started again. I actually bought the car this way and in 3 years have not found a solution. I know Series 1 guys say unplug the TRAC ECU or pull the fuse but the TRC is built into the ECU on Series 2 VVTi ECU’s.. I tried pulling the TRAC fuse but the engine light came on and there was very minimal acceleration fwd and back.
I am stumped.
It’s a JDM Series 2 VVTi, just FYI.
It’s a Tiptronic transmission too, sorry.
The easiest check would be ensuring that when you’re pressing the buttons they’re actually working and sending signals to the ECU. The others you have are tracking down ECU fault codes or swapping out the ECU with someone if possible to test if it’s the TRAC component of the VVTI ECU, sucks that it’s all integrated compared to the non-vvti!. Then the only other thing it could potentially be is the Tiptronic gearbox solenoid wiring or the solenoids need a clean. Just make sure the previous owner/s haven’t spliced into any wiring and caused problems with speed sensor wiring also 🙂
Can you confirm that JZS161 Aristo really has hot wire type MAF sensor? I would like to clean my sensor as my car has some hesitation problems especially when hot. I already bought some CRC air sensor cleaner, but did some research about it and found out that many Lexus cars have karman vortex sensor instead of hot wire and that crc stuff can damage it. I’m pretty sure it is hot wire type, but all internet forums made me doubt myself as many say it sure does look like karman vortex.
My understanding is that the 2JZGTE VVTi (97.9+) JZS161 and Supra VVTi engines all share the same hot-wire airflow meter (AFM), the best way to tell is by the type, it should be small and narrow. The Lexus GS300 and some other Lexus/Toyota engines use the Karman vortex sensor which seems to have a unit on top of the pipe and a rather large area of filtration/sensor surface area.
I used CRC cleaner on mine when it was TT and had no issues.
I’ve an 2JZGTE vvti in my supra, which is AT and tiptronic. I’m looking to swap an R154 into it. Can i simply change the ECU for a manual vvti ? Will it connect to the wiring loom without any change ? (minus the wiring loom from the autobox of course)
Thank you ! not many informations are available for this engine, your website is really helpfull 😉
You would need to bypass the neutral start switch and also wire up the 3 wire R154 speed sensor wiring to suit the VVTi ecu. This means you can keep the auto ecu in place.
There is some further information of someone doing the same conversion here with lots more information that may be helpful. It does reference a w58 but the same information should apply.
Has anyone experienced the engine running very rich when the AC is on? If I WOT I get ~9.8AFR.
AC off seems fine, but if the AC is on and then it gets turned off it takes ages for the car to recover.
How rich is it running with the A/C off on WOT? What are the intake and water temps when the A/C is on versus off. Is it a stock or aftermarket/piggy back ECU? If you idle the car what are your AFR’s and do they change when you turn the A/C on? Obviously there are a few things it could be and a little hard to diagnose over the internet, but I doubt the A/C alone is causing your car to run that rich.
WOT AC off is ~11.3
I’d have to check the temps. I doubt they’d change very much though? But I see where you’re going with that thought so I’ll check it.
Idle is 14.7 steady. AC on doesn’t change this.
Such a strange issue, it could be a bad coolant temp or o2 sensor? I’d at least start in that area to diagnose further.
will a 2jzgte non vvti throttle body fit a vvti intake manifold?
Yes the throttle body will fit, they use the same bolt pattern.
Can i just swapped them?……does it effect anything else?…..i will leave the vvti intake if it doesn’t
The T/B fits to the bolt pattern, but the issue with the vvti plenum will be you will need an IACV, so it makes sense to either get a complete non-vvti intake and T/B or go an aftermarket plenum. Unless you could find someway to run an IACV on the VVTi intake plenum.
I upgraded from twin to single…just had issues with throttle body(maybe the aftermarket ecu doesn’t support it)….thiniking to swap from vvti to non vvti both TB and Intake. Do i need to change something else apart from vacuum piping/different IACV and of course different Electronics/TRAC/??…does it match with my vvti engine?
Yes some aftermarket ECU’s don’t support the ETCS-i system. I use a hypertune plenum and 90mm T/B – but the stock non-vvti setup should be fine. You might need to get a throttle cable to suit, but apart from the IACV and vacuum/coolant lines the rest should be all in the aftermarket ECU settings. You wouldn’t be able to retain TRAC unless you had the early model TRAC computer and the aftermarket ECU tuned to suit.
I’ve installed injector 650cc in the jdm 2jz vvti automatic gear and install 3inch pipe turbo and intercoole my prolem in the boost cant hold.. only 0.6 bar
Whar problem my brother ???
In the past runing with stock injector with 2.5inch pipe no problem boost very fine
Which aftermarket ECU or piggy back system are you using? 650cc injectors are too large to run on the stock ECU without some sort of alternative ECU control, it will be running too rich so the MAF sensor will be seeing an abnormal voltage reading and then the MAP sensor will hit fuel cut.
Hi, I have a few questions. I have a IS300 2jzge vvti with a 5speed manual transmission and I am looking to do a 2jzgte swap. Would you know the best swap I should go far as vvti vs non vvti? And with all the 2jzgte I have seen for sale they all seem to a auto transmission, I take it that they are from the Aristo. But is it possible that my w55 tranny would work with that or would I have to change out my tranny with a w58 or r154? I am just looking for a full swap with a manual transmission but not really having much luck with that. And if I were to do this swap would it pass smog. I live here in California so yeah. Well if you have any information or could point me in the right direction that would be great. Thanks
The only advantage some people seem to see with the non-vvti is that there is a larger range or camshaft support and I think for some reason early on people were afraid of the technology. For me I’d prefer the VVTi as it’s a later model engine, the VVTi comes as an advantage for low-mid range with the cam adjustment the ECU makes and now there is good support out there from pretty much all of the aftermarket ECU manufacturers if you go down the modified path. Also the harness should be easier to match on your IS300.
With the transmission the 2JZGE and GTE share the same bolt patterns, so the W55 will fit, although in the long term the R154 or getrag path would be better depending on your power goals. The Aristo did come with an auto-transmission only, that’s why you see them with autos a lot.
I can’t advise on smog rules as I’m not from the US/California but I do know they need to meet OBDII standards (for it to be checked), so the problem will be with the 2JZGTE VVTi engine is that it uses JBOD not OBDII, you may need more advise on this subject though and potentially need another option here.
Check out the IS300 swap manual here also, it goes into much more detail of the things you will need to consider – http://www.2jzgarage.com/2012/07/is300-2jzgte-vvti-swap-manual/
Is there anyway on getting my 99 lexus gs300 out of security mode my key broke and battery died. How can I get my car to start again?
Try the following to get out of security mode;
-Remove battery cable for 2-3mins
-Reconnect battery cable
-Ensure all doors are closed and manually lock with a spare or new key on the drivers side
-Then finally try manually unlocking (for 3 seconds or so) with the key
As for programming another new key to the system you can follow this process or alternatively take it to a local Lexus dealer.
I did the 2jzgte vvti swap in my 2000 gs300. There no brake booster vacuum. Where can I hook up the vacuum line coming out the rear of the intake. Ty
I know with the GS300 and Aristo that all they usually have is a bolt with a washer from memory that goes in the top of the intake manifold. I know with my project I needed to buy a brake booster vacuum fitting as the supra uses the vacuum unlike the GS300 and Aristo. I’m not 100% sure on the size of the nut but it will be metric 12-14mm at a guess.
Sorry if I missed it in the comments, but I had a question about your mention of OBDII compatibility.
If I get a JDM 2JZGTE VVTi and modify the harness (and adding MAF) to use a USDM ECU, can I regain true plug and play OBDII functionality? Emissions testing in Texas only requires readiness codes to be set. So I just need an ECU that can be read with standard OBDII equipment and with standard operating procedures.
Is there someone in supra forums that would be an expert on this subject?
The JDM harness and not officially ODBII compliant they are JOBD, check out this post for more info- http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/01/2jzgte-vvti-obd-scanning-and-information/
You wouldn’t be able to us the USDM ECU with the JDM 2JZGTE VVTi engine, as the USDM ECU won’t have the functionality for the VVTi functionality. I’m sure with a non-vvti JDM engine you would be able to make the changes.
hi hoping someone can help me here. I have a 88 supra NA now other than the list given above im a bit confused with all the research I done .
got a 2jzgevvti off a gs300 with everything included. (going in the 88 mk3 supra)
do I need to get a non vvti harness still?
Hi, No the VVTi harness will be fine if you have a vvti ECU. You will require custom wiring for the body loom of the 88 mk3 supra though for your application. There are a few forum threads out there with some 2jz vvti swaps also that may help.
where is the temperature sending unit located on the 2jz-ge
There are 2x sensors on the back of the head under the exhaust manifold. The one you want to replace is the one closest to the front of the engine.
This write up here will give you a good overview of the process.
good afternoon. I’m seeking guidance on m y project. I have a 1987 Toyota royal saloon crown ms 122 an did a 2jzvvti conversion. My twin turbo setup has been dumping engine oil once I go into boost an have no idea what’s causing it. Its the stock system an I need guidance on this…Once the vehicle is idling an is revved the twin turbo system is working excellent but once its driving the twin turbo system is braking up an holding back. guide me accordingly plz. also been thinking about changing the turbo system to replace it with 2 single turbo an install it to work as a twin turbo system. my car is everyday driven but I enjoy speed an the performance my engine gave at the very beginning.
Sounds like a nice combination for a 2jz swap!
Since it’s occurring under load it’s most likely a oil feed/pressure side issue, if it was from the oil dump the leak probably wouldn’t be as bad, but without knowing how much oil it’s dumping/spraying then this is just a guess.
I would start with degreasing everything and washing it all down, then start up the engine to temp and see if you can see any leaks, give it a few revs to build up some oil pressure and see if anything can be seen leaking, most of these issues don’t occur until they are under driving load, so a small trip around the block and see if the leak can be pin-pointed.
You will most likely need to remove the intake piping and heat shields to be able to see anything from above, getting under the car would be a better place to locate any leaks. The feed lines are on the side of the block, it’s either a loose fitting or a cracked/pin hole feed line.
where does the 2jz get its name from
Toyota assign it’s naming like so;
2 – 2nd generation of engine (i.e – 1JZ was first, the bigger the number the newer the engine)
JZ – Engine family code
G – Performance wide-angle valve DOHC
T – Turbocharged
E – Electronic Fuel Injection
Hi, nice writeup! I’ve been looking everywhere and can’t find the right information! I have a non vvti aristo 2jzgte and I’m going to swap it into my na jza80. What exactly do I need for this to be possible? Is it the same as the list you provided in your writeup? Or are there a few other different things? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thankyou.
Yes it will be pretty much exactly the same with the exception of the water pump setup on the Aristo, it will have a hydraulic pump. Get the supra water pump, o-ring, thermostat and or-ing for it also.
Nice write up, wonder if you could help me with a few questions. I have imported aristo with the 2jzgte from japan it needs timing belt, water pump, cam seal, crank seal and vvti gear. So my questions are would the vvti gear be the same one from the 98 supra JZA80? and could i use part numbers from a 98 gs300 us version for the water pump, came seal and crank seal?
The water pump, timing belt, VVTi gear and seals are the same between the Aristo and Supra 2JZGTE VVTi engine, as for the part number differences with the GS300 from the US they will have different part numbers but most of the parts should be identical as it’s the same block.
Hi, thank you for the helpful info
I just got a 2jz vvti engine i’m going to make it single turbo + link ecu but the engine is stock
Am gonna put the engine on a 350z manual…. building a drift car
Are there any difficulties using this engine for drift like oil or any problems?
Sounds like a fun build, the 2jz has a very good oil system and baffle setup. The engineers pretty much got the sump as low as you can go in the supra frame. So with your project I would just ensure the sump setup is as close to the supra/aristo as possible and that you have filled the oil level to full. If you are going a competition/full time track car then it might be worth looking at a dry sump setup, I’ve noticed a few of the pro drifters using them in recent years.
When you set the timing with the variable timing cam on the intake what position do you put the cam in?
Because it has a 30 degree movement unpressurized I cannot figure out how to set the dot in the cam. Mid movement , 30 degrees clockwise or counter clockwise.
I home you understand what I mean.
Turn the 10mm Hex bolt all the way to the the right (clockwise) and ensure that the dot mark on the VVTi pulley is set to the timing mark on the belt cover. This is it’s default location, then the VVTi solenoid will adjust it as required.
Hey I had a quick question I’m not to sure how this works but I have a 2jzgte vvti most likely out of an aristo and it was an automatic so I picked up a 5 speed w58 out of a mk4 NA supra and wanted to just have that running for a while but I’m not sure what Ecu I have to use cuz my motor came with an ecu but it’s an auto ecu does that make a difference? Basically what ecu would I have to run to make it work
You would need to bypass the neutral start switch and also wire up the 3 wire w58 speed sensor wiring to suit the VVTi ecu.
There is some further information of someone doing the same conversion here with lots more information that may be helpful.
Hi recently put in a 2jzvvti in wy r32 skyline I am using back my r33 gtr gearbox could you tell me what conversion I need to do to get it to work thank you in advance
I would need some more details, are you retaining awd? You would at the very least need a custom bell housing made up to suit the gearbox and also ensure there is clearance for the engine, especially the turbos and sump. It seems like a crazy engine swap and would be a lot of work/money involved. As much as I love 2JZ’s, it would make far more sense to build the RB26 or complete an RB30 engine conversion?
I am looking to swap my 7 MGTE turbo model with a 2jz with an auto transmission in my 1988 Toyota Supra , and my car was originally a auto, I want to remove the old tranny and engine and sell it, if anybody has any suggestions on where I could sell it, it would be highly appreciated,, and also if I do swap my old ingine with a 2 jzgte vvti twin turbo model what would I need to complete it, I am new to all of this and by the way this is my first car
Supraforums would probably be a good place to sell, or an automotive Facebook group.
There is a good write up/list and comments here.
i swap an 2jzvvti engine now sometimes when it boost on wot engines just dies
then i have to start it again and run fine any idea what itp’s wrong?
Sounds like boost cut which is better described as over boost ECU fuel cut out.
My vvti system has a knocking noice.I used a stethoscope and noice is strongest around ocv area.I tried to clean system but filter was gone:) Any suggestions exept from buying a filter.Thanks Rune
I’d clean out the OCV as I’ve described here – http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/08/cleaning-2jz-vvti-oil-control-valve-ocv/
Once you’ve ensured it’s clean and you’ve put a new filter on I’d also check that the front vvti cam cover nut and cam bolt are torque to spec.
hello,recently i put an single turbo on a 2jzgte vvti 14psi of boost with no problems using a 4″ pipe for the maf but air fuel mixture runs lean before hit boosts on boost runs good ,can i use an apexi afc for enrich mixture on non boost rpm range?
Realy good information. I run a 2jz ge in a hydroplane boat in the 3 ltr class and I have a vvti model that I wondered if I could run with a Link ecu and I also wondered where I wpuld fix the cam as we run the motor @ 8k continually but must be easy to start. We can’t put on a turbo as this would push us over 3l. Would the advanced mode give more power if left in that mode at top revs. cheers. Pete
Sounds like a great setup mate, must be plenty of fun! I know the Link ECU and ViPEC are very similar and would run fine with the 2JZGE – they are both supported and you will have a wide range of adjustment available to you, including VVTi cam timing. I run the ViPEC V88 on my 600hp 2JZGTE VVTi engine and have had no problems at all, great ECU.
If your engine is VVTi then you can only fix the exhaust cam position (Adjustable cam gear to your required setting). As for the intake cam this is variable from full retard to 30 degrees advance in stock form, the Link should allow you to adjust the cam timing to you set value. I’m no expert on cam timing or peak power production in relation to cams, but I’d imaging retarding the exhaust cam (cam gear) and advancing the intake cam using the Link ECU would work more in your favour due to the high rpm nature, putting the peak power and cam overlap later in the rpm range. Also keep in mind the more advance later in the RPM range is probably only relevant on higher duration camshafts, I’d recommend a larger camshaft for that rpm, the stock 2JZ GE VVTi one is 248 degrees. I’m also assuming your running upgraded internals due to the RPM intended.
As for starting I think that all comes down to the tuners settings in the ECU, usually out of the box tune will do this fine. I hope this helps a little, take my camshaft information lightly as I’m not expert in this area, I just don’t think you will make much more peak power over 6500rpm with stock cams and tuning.
Great site thanks for the helpful info, just wondering if replacing a throttle body from a vvti 2jzgte with an aristo non vvti throttle body is doable as a straight swap?
No it wouldn’t be a straight swap, unless you are running an aftermarket computer and have an aftermarket or non-vvti IACV. The stock ECU for the VVTi would expect all the inputs from the ETCSi system such as TPS, APPS, without these the car would most likely run in limp mode. Plus the VVTi throttle body has the IACV built into it, the non-vvti is mounted into the intake manifold and wired back to the ECU.
I do have a VVTi throttle body for sale without a TPS sensor if you are interested.
More info on the ETCSi system can be found here if your interested – http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/07/etcs-i-dbw-system-troubleshooting/
Yes I’m interested in that throttle body of yours, I think I have an air leak in mine, there’s a horrible whistle coming from it on idle every now and then.
Will shoot you an email to discuss further mate.
Do you know if I order a gasket set from toyota and oil pump it will be the same as non vvti model?
Part numbers are different – check toyodiy.com;
04111 GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL
04111-46055 (05/1993 – 07/1997)
04111-46056 (08/1997 – 07/2002)
04112 GASKET KIT, ENGINE VALVE GRIND
04112-46055 (05/1993 – 07/1997)
04112-46056 (08/1997 – 07/2002)
15100 PUMP ASSY, OIL
15100-46051 (05/1993 – 03/1997)
15100-46052 (04/1997 – )
Great write up btw, I like to know if its possible to fit a non vvti head to a vvti supra without having to change the entire wire loom?
Thanks in advance
I’d imagine it would be too much hassle but all possible. There would be various wiring loom differences (oil pressure sensor, vvti sensor, ETCSi system etc), there would be VVTi oil pressure union port hole on the block which would need to be swapped to a oil pressure sensor with the correct adapter for the hole. You would need a non-vvti ECU or aftermarket ECU. The ignition setup is completely different, VVTi runs wasted spark and different coils/igniter – once gain would need correct ECU. The list probably goes on for smaller items but I can’t see it as a worthwhile exercise.
I ended up building a fully forged block from a non vvti and modifying to take my vvti head ‘newly refreshed with oem parts’.
Nice, sounds like a good setup 🙂 That’s a much better approach then swapping heads, hope the build goes well.
Hello, I’m installing a turbo kit onto my 2000 lexus gs300 and was wondering if I was able to run the JDM aristo injectors.. I was told to run these injectors since there used for a single turbo 2jz.. can anyone give me a hand
Hi, What engine and ECU are you using currently. I’m assuming your running standard 2JZGE VVTi with USDM injectors? The JDM aristo injectors will be the same as the 2JZGTE VVTi 440cc High Impedance injectors.
can a 2jz be converted into an escort
If you have enough time, money and expertise anything can usually be done. Although like most small cars and engine bays I wouldn’t recommend a 2JZ for an escort. Not saying it can’t be done, but it’s a long motor, weights a bit (too much for front end of an escort), there would be significant modification required for the escort and I think overall it wouldn’t be a good fit. I think the 3SGTE would be a better choice of engine from the Toyota line up, there are heaps of other options out there but I’d stick with something smaller.
At the end of the day speak to someone in the know such as a workshop or automotive engineer.
Hi Mr. Dustin,
How are you?
Sorry to disturb you,I’m curious to know where did you purchase the HKS air intake kit?
I have the same 2jzgte vvti engine and I’m doing some basic upgrades and I really want to purchase the hks air intake kit,can you guide me to the site where you purchase the HKS air intake kit?
Hope to hear soon from you,
I have a hks air intake kit.
From a vvti with maf sensor of you still want.
Can you please tell me from where did you purchased it?
It came with the car.
You Wanna buy i sell $350 shipped
thanks for your offer,but I’m searching a brand new one..
Do you know where I could find one?
As far as I’m aware they are no longer available brand new.
Very hard to come by even second hand.
I have one for sale its currently on ebay, and I will be happy enough to mail it to the states. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251379431515?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Sorry for late reply but I originally got mine from perfectrun.jp. Don’t think you cans till get them as Muzzytt suggested.
Do you know what the max whp the mass air flow sensor can read before it runs out of resolution? My turbo is a precision pte 5862.
I’m not 100% sure but I’ve spoken to my tuner and heard from other tuners around 380-400rwhp+ can cause issues flow, but I’m not 100% sure on figures.
Hallo guys, are you saying its possible to turbo charge an Aristo with a 2jzGE-VVTi Engine, without putting forged pistons and stronger conrodes?.
I’d always recommend with a higher compression engine (2jzge or similar) not to turbo charge and buy a 2JZGTE or similar. But that’s not to say it’s not possible, I’ve seen anywhere between 7-10psi ran safely on the 2JZGE with the relevant modifications and done safely. Depends on budget and goals. You can always upgrade the 2JZGE engine with 2JZGTE or aftermarket parts, but in the long it’s better to go 2JZGTE.
I would like to know on the vvti intake manifold what the sensor’s are that are on it.
I know one is the map sensor. The other ones I need to know as I have converted to single turbo and vipec ecu so would like to know if ineed some of them.
There is the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure), Fuel pressure regulator and, VSV for the fuel/carbon canister purge sensors (this one not really required but ViPEC can handle it) there are also the following sensors on the throttle body which I included – TPS (throttle position sensor), APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor) and TCM (Throttle Control Motor).
The ViPEC loom/connector plug and play should work without any issues, if your custom wiring check out my wiring diagrams to get the exact ecu pinouts to match to your loom.
Thanks mate thevipec all weird up and working waiting for thetube to be done.
I just swap my 97 sc300 with a 2jzvvti resently it started shutting of when hitting boost ( when accelerating hard)
Sounds like boost/fuel cut or possibility leak in intercooler piping or could be a lot of other things? Do you have a boost meter to see what boost it occurs at, or is it just as soon as it hits boost? Possibly not enough fuel pressure/pump pressure, there are so many variables, would require more info to troubleshoot (boost, wiring, fuel setup, sensors in good health and test etc)
well i found out it was my fuel pump failed and is was due to the my car driving with less than 1/4 tank of fuel .i was told that the fuel cools off the pump and harmful to the fuel pump if car is under 1/4 tank
Glad you got it sorted, thought it would be fuel related by the way you described it. It’s always a good idea to keep at least 1/4 of a tank or more, I always try, especially with 3x denso pumps running 🙂
what would you suggest i replace on my 2jzge vvti to turbo it properly? i want to do it properly so im going to get the full aftermarket ecu to make it run smootly
fuel pressure regulator
blow of valve
and piping for evertyhing eg exhuast intrrcooler and intake
does this sound about right?
Yes most of the parts you listed will suit, if your are on a tight budget there is no need for fuel pressure reg, BOV. The only other thing I’d suggest is an aftermarket clutch and that you have the big brakes, suspension is in good condition (coils, swaybars etc) and also good quality tyres.
First off, great site, treasure trove of info 🙂 My question is I have a USDM 2JZ-GTE, non vvti. There’s a JDM 2JZ GTE vvti head for sale and I’m thinking of getting it to swap into my car. How do I go about converting my non vvti equipped engine to that of a vvt-i equipped engine? Mechanically and electronically?
Also, do I need a headgasket specific to the vvt-i head or a regular, non-vvti headgasket for the turbo engines are interchangeable between the two?
Also, I’m running AEM EMS V2. Any tips on how to let it control vvti function?
There are no major benefits to putting a vvti head on a non-vvti engine, it would be a lot of hassle for no real gains (value for money). But if you were to convert (assuming you got a complete head with cams etc) then you would need to take out the stock oil pressure sensor on the non-vvti and run the vvti pressure feed line to the vvti solenoid, use a different crank trigger wheel (36-2 vvti vs 12 non-vvti), vvti coils and igniter (wasted spark), it would also require additional wiring for the vvti cam sensor. That would probably be all I can think of. I’m not too sure on AEM specific vvti settings but the ignition and trigger setup would require to change.
The headgaskets are the same across both the models, if your in the US then there is no EGR port.
These guys make patch harness for the vvti supra
hello,which wires do i have to connect to take an jdm 2jzgte vvti running
i know that the igniter B+ injectors which others?
also engine it’s AT but i’m gonna use an manual r154 which mods on the ecm should i do to set this configuration?
Hi, Sorry I don’t quite understand what you are trying to achieve? I’m assuming you require wiring information on the auto-manual swap. I’ve never undertaken this work but I’d imagine you would need to bridge the STA (Starter Signal Wire) and the NSW (Neutral Start Switch) on the auto transmission loom to a B+ 12v source source from memory.
I’d double check the starting sections of the wiring diagrams of both the auto and manual.
can i use the drive by wire
tb just with cable (cruise control)
with no issues?
I’m not too sure how you would go about it but I’d assume you would be able to do it. I’m fairly certain the vvti did not come out with cruise control as standard but the Aristo V300 had it. So I think you could use the DBW with one cable.
I currently own a 1998 JDM supra with a 2jzgte vvt-i engine and am planning to upgrade the engine with a single turbo setup.
So far i already purchased a full stand alone AEM V2 ECU but after plugging it in the harness i had no luck starting the engine. Ive been trying to find information online how to proceed to at least get the engine up and running without damaging it. Do you have any idea how to proceed? The stand alone was advertised as a plug and play item.
I would appreciate any help on this issue.
There are so many variables at play here that I probably can’t pinpoint or resolve the issue for you over the internet.
The first thing I’d do is ensure ECU has power, the firmware is up to date, the ECU has a base 2JZGTE VVTi base map and you contact AEM for any support regarding the setup. If it’s plug and play that’s purely just the wiring aspect I would assume. I’d also confirm that the car works correctly with the stock ECU as a first point of call, could be as simple as a blown EFI fuse all the way through to a ECU mis-configured setting.
I have recently opened the 5 bolts on the 2jz cam gear,when its written Dont remove the 5 bolts,what shoul i do, please help
Check out this video which may help you understand how to put it back together – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KQGRulDJSk
I have a 99 g300 thinking bout doing the aristo swap w/tranny and ecu my question is what will i need for this complete swap or should i say can i just install n will it be plug n play im a true newby to this so any info will help
I personally haven’t done one or have much knowledge, but this info on my site may assist you with a GS/IS300 swap for a good solid starting point; http://www.2jzgarage.com/2012/07/is300-2jzgte-vvti-swap-manual/
Hi I’ve swapped the 2jzgte vvti motor into my 90 supra and am having some issues, I have an auto Ecu, my car has an r154 in it, I’ve put the car back to stock basically, the only change on the motor is single turbo with 3in intercooler walbro255 fuel pump,the car starts but has a rich idle of 10.0 and will rev to 4400 rpm and then hit like a rev limiter, or web it gets to 0psi of boost, if I try to move car it shuts off, I’ve bin trying to get this car to run for 10 months now, I need help please
Sounds very much like wiring or ECU issues. I’d highly recommend checking through my ETCS-i post to ensure you have setup the wiring correctly before proceeding further – http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/07/etcs-i-dbw-system-troubleshooting/
Also ensure air flow meter is connected correctly.
what other auto trans will fit in toyota aristo 2jzgte
I’m not too sure but you may want to check out searches on;
Hey, I have a ’93 supra na 5sp and I’m putting in a jdm vvti gte w/6sp (99% sure from a supra, not aristo), I have a few questions. I just ran into the problem that the engine harness does not clip into the fuse box correctly new plug has 5 terminals, old has 3, how do I wire this? I also noticed me steering rack has two electrical plugs that connected to the old engine harness but not the new one, I took into consideration it came from a rh drive but therer no plugs on the other side of the new engine, does this matter? And lastly I have realized the vvti or etcsi or whatever in general, requires its own fuse, how do I wire this? Is this one of those extra 2 wires I wrote about? thanks, I greatly appreciate any help
Yes I had the same issue and had to swap over connectors and run fresh witing for EFI and ETCS. I was lucky enough to get a whole fuse box and connectors to put in the fuse box pins but you can purchase the pins and connectors from toyota or use custom connectors. EFI1 and EF2 relays used on 2JZGTE and 2JZGE only uses one EFI relay. You have the option of joining them through 1 relay but I preferred to setup as it is from the factory.
Use the wiring diagrams off the 2JZGTE and 2JZGE to compare the EFI wiring, don’t just take my word for it as it’s been years since I worked on it! Also check out this post I put up in my project thread with some diagrams I made up – http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/projects/25065-project-szr-tt-28.html You will also need to double check the VVTi wiring diagrams I have on my site.
EFI Wiring under fuse box is like the following;
EFI relay 1 is already setup on 2JZGE but the fuel pump ECU uses 12v from the EFI1 relay the 2JZGTE uses the EFI2 relay to supply 12v. So to fix up as factory you need to;
EFI1 relay and fusing –
EFI 1 relay Pin 5 needs to move to EFI 2 Pin 5 (This is the 12v wire to the fuel pump ecu)
EFI 1 relay Pin 2 needs to bridge connections with EFI 2 Pin 2 (This is a shared ground)
EFI 1 relay Pin 5 needs to bridge connections with EFI 2 Pin 1 (This is a shared 12v)
EFI 2 relay and fusing –
EFI 2 pin1 from fuse box pin goes to 12v (Shared 12v within fuse box for all fuses) – EFI2 30amp fuse
EFI 2 relay Pin 3 needs to move to EFI 2 Fuse Pin 2 (This is the new EFI2 fuse)
Once all the EFI fuse box and relay wiring is complete you can send the black-red extra wire from the 5 pin engine loom connector to the current black-red 12v wire, the factory unit has a splice point.
ETCS 15amp fuse wiring under in fuse box is like the following;
ETCS pin1 goes to 12v from fuse box pin (Shared 12v within fuse box for all fuses) – ETCS 15amp
ETCS pin2 goes to one of those plugs under the fuse box to 5 pin engine loom connector – which then goes straight to ECU
I’m not 100% sure on LHD vs RHD steering rack wiring, but I know mine had 1x 2pin plug to plug into the steering rack.
Hopefully this helps 🙂
Really2 glad someone make things so much easyer.. Really graet full,..
But i have in mind,.. What about 2jz in to is200, is200 i have is GXE10, its little deffrent from is300.
I have searching intire all day long for month to find simple answer.
Do you have any link? For complet swap.
Sorry I don’t have any personal information on this type of conversion but did find some information – but not a complete swap guide or anything like that;
I know there are a few people around that have completed the swap if you do some quick searching on google you may find critcal information but I doubt you will find any complete guides.
I was wondering if jdm 2jzgte vvti will pass smog since the motor doesn’t need the egr because of the ETCS system. And thank you for your informations, it’s helpful.
Sorry I’m not quite sure on US smog regulation and rules as I live in Australia but from some quick searching it seems US only allow OBDI and OBDII ECU/scanning and because the 2JZGTE VVTi doesn’t use OBDII standards, it uses J-OBD then it won’t pass. As far as I’m aware it still uses the standard OBDII ports but doesn’t meet the US regulations.
thanks for all the information provided !!! , I clarify some doubts
Greetings from Paraguay, South America
I have plans to use the 2JZ-GTE VVTI, anyone know if I can put non-vvti cams & pulleys , to the 2jz-gte VVTI? and draw the VVTI.. I not net the VVTI for drag racing..
As far as I’m aware this would not be possible or worth while, The head has the provisions for the vvti intake cam and would not be possible to swap with non-vvti on the intake side. Go with a non-vvti 2JZGTE or use a non-vvti head on the engine. You could use non-vvti cams and pulleys on the exhaust side and either get new intake cam or lock out vvti using an aftermarket EMU if required – but why lose the benefit of VVTi 🙂
I have a JDM supra with a 2jz gte engine, my engine is bad right now and I want to know if I change it to a Aristo 2jz gte VVti, that come with the harnes, ecu, transmision, does I need to do some changes also like you post before. and if you could tell what I will need to change.
-You will need to perform all the modifications listed on this page under Aristo Engine differences
-You will need to either purchase a VVTi Supra ECU and Loom to suit (easiest solution) or modify the Aristo loom to match the supra body loom – this would be a big pain and take quite a bit of work of matching and cutom wiring. Either way you would probably need the Supra VVTi ECU or run aftermarket ECU
You can tap into ecu via obdii connector and read fault codes very easy. And its possible to read a heap of info like water temp throttle position etc also…
You wouldn’t happen to know any further details on this, are there any special tools or converters needed for this. I’ve read and been told the body connectors are find with generic odbii connectors but engine ones don’t work. It doesn’t impact me with the Vipec v88 – but it does for anyone with a stock ECU 🙂 It has been years since I did any proper research on this but can’t quite remember the outcome of results with scanning the vvti!
yeah sure mate .
buy obdii adapter from ebay , then purchase the pro version of TORQUE from android market
in the vehicle profile of torque app add the following line in the VERY ADVANCED ELM327 section
ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8213F0 \n ATSP4 \n 0100
once you do this it starts talking to each other, you can read fault codes and clear them too !
the only issue was I think it triggers limp home mode if you try driving with adaptor left in the port, though Not confirmed this could be a fault in my car as it says something about the fly by wire throttle system….
So did you have to wire a standard OBD2 J1962 connector and pinout from ECU to make the ELM adapter work? I would think that you’d need serial, (SIL), Chassis, CG, and B+ to make this work correct?
Thanks mate, I’ve added this to a post 🙂 – http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/01/2jzgte-vvti-obd-scanning-and-information/
Hi, very informative site…could you be so kind as to tell me what compatible oxygen sensors are compatible with both engines….thanks alot in advance.
I don’t use non-genuine parts where posible but I know Denso pr Bosch would most likely be your best bet?
http://www.densoproducts.com/resultsApp.asp?AAIA=1317583&productCategoryID=2 – List of Denso part numbers – the 4 pin one looks like the supra vvti version.
I do have a part number for the Bosch unit (0 258 986 617)- note this is only non-vvti according to their PDF catalogue – http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/Oxgen_Sensor__Cat_WEB.pdf
Can u tell me if the water pump for a vvti tt engine is the same as the none vvti tt engine?
Many thanks, great write up….!
Yes the water pump on the 2JZGTE vvti is the same as the non-vvti, part number – 16100-49846. I have replaced mine when I did the conversion a few years ago.
Hello, I saw your website for the conversion you done on your supra using the astrio engine vvti and i was wondering is it a hard task and was it expensive to get done, reason for my question is i got a 1995 toyota supra which has got the non vvti twin turbo engine in it and i know and have heard that the newer engine is alot better, and i have seen a astrio 2jzgte vvti engine for sale and thinking of getting it to fit into my supra to make it better but need some advise and wondering where your based
At the time it was a little hard as I was young and had no previous experience with cars, modifications or supras.
It wasn’t too expensive as I got a really good deal with parts/engine and did all the work myself ad also borrowed a heap of tools.
If I was you I would not bother upgrading to vvti – there is no major difference that I would consider to upgrade from a non-vvti engine. The non-vvti is easier to modify but is better in a stock form for torque/power/components.
at moment we plan put aristo 2jzgte vvti in is300, we have engine plus is engine loom and 5 speed gearbox, now we have problem with aftermarket parts for this conversion and dont know where to get flywheel and clutch for this conversion. im 99% sure this new engine is basicly same as 2jzge vvti what is in is300 but confirmation will be helpfull. also if you guys know of any other things what we should be avare with this conversion
It sounds like a fun project. Probably best to specify what gearbox you are using R154, W58 or other? This will determine flywheel and clutch combination for the setup – most likely it’s a R154 and you will need a clutch and flywheel suitable for that gearbox. I’m not too familiar with the conversion in the IS300 but hopefully the link below will help.
I have had nearly all TSRM for every year supra including the newer VVTI versions, however, my hard drive crashed and it appears that i can only find the 2JZGT VVTI version in my back up and i am in need of the 2JZGTE VVTI version. have you gotten a PDF version? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Sorry I wish I had all TSRM versions! The only vvti engine manual I have is for the Lexus GS300 2JZGE, I have no supra vvti TRSMs. Let me know if you find any VVTi/Supra TRSM’s and I will upload them to the website!
With the gs300 98-05 you have to piggy back off stock ecu that’s what the hks fcon vpro gold is for and that’s what I run in my swapped Gs. You can’t have a standalone run the whole car because you would have to rewrite the whole vehicle. The Gs has multiple ecu’s that link together. And the maf is good up to 700 and most single turboed aristo’s in Japan still run maf for better driveabilty.
Hi I’m currently fighting my swap 2jzgte vvti into a 98 lexus gs. I used the map ecu2 as a piggy back because of the maf delete feature for the simple fact that i didnt get the maf sensor with my swap. Even with that feaure I’m running lean at startup. 10s on my afr gauge. Is the maf sensor the only thing that can correct that issue?
I’m assuming you also have an auto in the GS – otherwise you might as well setup your Map ECU2 as a full standalone if it meets all your requirements.
I’ve never stuffed around with hybrid setups running stock ECU for some functions and Piggy-back for other functions as you can run into issues like this – but that’s not to say it can’t be fixed. Most likely the stock ECU is still looking after certain functions that control fuel/cold start that may look for the MAF sensors input to give stable AFR’s based on air flow + o2 sensor readings. I’d recommend ensuring the MAP ECU is setup to do the fuel table based off the stock (or aftermarket) MAP sensor. I personally have not had experinece in the piggy back area and would always recommend a full standalone system where possible.
where do you get induction kit and maf hosuing from and top end pipe to turbos
ie pipe above maf
I orignally got mine from perfectrun.jp – not sure if they still sell them. Was a HKS kit that came with the lot (Filter, MAF housing, All pipes).
first u did great work really thanx for the info.
i bought non vvti but the suplier send me vvti and to send it back will cost alot anyway i planned to use it so what am askin if i plan to use stock vvti ecu is it fine as i dont have any trusted tuner next to me to use standalone or other ecu and i used to use apexi safc to tune the car is that fine with the vvti also i was reading alot and i still didnt get how to fix that drive by wire issue is it just wiring stuff or i need to do some tricks to make the car run normaly as i did the wiring for the non vvti and its very easy so what should i know befor i start
and am using the engine in non toyota cars actully its aston martin db7 got the car without engine and transmission and and planning to use manuel tranny
Should be fine with stock vvti ECU – just make sure it has the correct TPS and proper wiring is followed to ensure you don’t run into issues with the drive by wire. But if it’s vvti ecu and engine loom it should be plug and play from the engine side.
Obviously you will need to do some magic on the Aston Martin DB7 wiring / body / dash loom etc – Nice car by the way, sounds like a fun project! Also don’t install the apexi safc until you have finished wiring the lot in.
I’m currently changing the cam seals on my 99 vvti TT supra. I was wondering if you’ve had to do somethig similar, and if you might know how to remove the vvti cam gear? I’m stumped so far.
Any help you can offer would be hugely appreciated.
I’ve personally never changed them but it’s something I will do in the future and have read up on it. In the IS300 manual it says the following;
Remove vvti oil control vlave first:
Disconnect oil pipe from VVTi oil control valve
Remove oil control valve filter (Also good time to clean it up or get a new one)
Remove intake cam gear
DO NOT REMOVE THE 5 centre Bolts!!!!
Get rag and put under vvti valve hole
Turn vvti pulley left and right a couple of times 30 degrees or so
Holding hexagon part of camshaft to stop cam gear moving
Put cloth under centre 14mm hexagon bolt from intake cam gear and remove it and the seal washer
Remove 10mm hexagon bolt and intake cam gear
I will do my best to get the IS300 service manual up, although it’s not 2JZGTE VVTi, a lot of the VVTi stuff is the same.
hi i have swapped a 2jz vvti twin turbo to my mazda rx8, when i drive and stop and when i come back and start the rpm revs till 3000 and it stays there i need to off the engine few times and try to get the idle in normal position, can somebody help me to advice what i should check to rectify this problem plz.
This could be multiple things but a very good place to start is the ETCS-i system for troubleshooting – http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/07/etcs-i-dbw-system-troubleshooting/