Summary Part 1
Removal of stock parts Part 2 – You are here
Wiring Part 3
Aristo engine differences Part 4
Installation Part 5
Final thoughts Part 6
So you’ve made it to this stage then you are ready to start pulling out the 2JZGE, make sure you have ample space in yours or someone else’s garage or workshop to work.
Ensure you reference the workshop manual for the process of removing all of the parts, and that you label them and keep all bolts/nuts together.
Begin by draining and safely deposing of all of the fluids from the engine such as;
- Oil – Plug on bottom of sump and oil filter under intake plenum
- Coolant – Plug under radiator, engine plug also at rear behind exhaust manifold
- Power steering fluid – Remove any hose under reservoir
- Transmission fluid *Optional if V160/V161 – Although recommended changing while you’re there
Remove all of the following;
- Battery, tray and clamps (Remove the battery ground leads always before working on any car)
- Any wiring sensors/plugs you can reach
- Igniter / Fuse box connectors
- Intake system
- Top and bottom radiator hose and overflow hose
- Radiator, clutch fan and Fan shroud
- Drive belt (Accessories belt)
- Exhaust heat shield
- Exhaust system
- Front bumper assembly/plastic under-guards
- Heater hoses
- Charcoal canister and hoses
- Throttle Cable
- Power steering lines (On reservoir and steering rack)
- Fuel line from fuel filter union bolt
- Return fuel line
- Clutch pressure line to slave cylinder
- Ground wires that go to transmission/fuel filter
- Grounds wire at the back of engine (To firewall)
- A/C compressor lines *Optional – I didn’t remove these, I was tight on budget at the time, but if you do remove the lines please remove as per workshop manual. I would do this as it makes it easier than keeping hoses connected and working around the compressor!
- Shifter assembly
- ECU wiring/loom pulled out through firewall
- Drive Shaft
- Rear transmission support
- Engine mount bolts
Headlights taken out to get access to front bar nuts, then removal of front bar and under tray
Radiator and shroud removed
Main fuse box wiring disconnected
Fuel filter left, clutch slave cylinder right. Best to disconnect the middle circlip and hose attachment to the clutch slave cylinder
Ground wire removed from the fuel filter bracket
Draining the V161 fluids
Clutch fan removed
ECU and loom removal
Shifter removal (This is a C’s short shifter, stock will be similar)
Everything removed, tied back and almost ready for removal
Once tailshaft, rear gearbox mount and engine mount bolts removed the engine could be removed
I am going to go single turbo on 2jz ge non vvti , are the ones using the JDM aristo ECU using the VVTI aristo ecu on a non vvti GE motor?
Hey mate, I’d think that most likely the easiest approach would be to use a JDM non VVTi ECU for your application, there is no need to use a VVTi ECU. It would probably make sense to go an aftermarket ECU if possible for your application.
I’ve started collecting information for making this swap into a Jaguar MK2, an old 350 conversion I’m not really that fond of, and am I’m looking forward to the installation. I’ll face different problems but your info will still be very useful.
nice will be following this swap.
well doing the head gasket on my 2jz vvti will the 2jz non vvti head gasket the same
Yes the gaskets are the same, you should be able to order part number – 11115-46052.